HOW TO DISABLE DRLs
First off, as of December 2010, there are no federal laws in the US that mandate DRLs on passenger vehicles. In fact, The National Highway Transportation Safety Administration has denied a petition from General Motors to make DRLs mandatory. If your dealer refuses to disconnect your DRLs, saying "they're a mandatory safety item," then your dealer is lying, plain and simple.
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GM General Information
It may help you to know that if you plan on ordering a new General Motors car or truck, but don't want DRLs, you don't have to have them. Simply insist that the car be ordered with RPO T62. RPO means "Regular Production Option" T62 "Lamp System Daytime Running - Delete." (Unofficial list of 2002MY GM truck RPOs) Remember, DRLs are not mandatory in the United States. You don't have to have them if you don't want them. If buying from stock, INSIST that the dealer disable the DRLs as a condition of sale. Contrary to what the dealer might say, there is no law in the US preventing them from doing so.
Many GM have a "DRL fuse", associated with a DRL Module & and up to 3 relays. Usually HI beams in series. Some the LO beams are reduced by 2 volts with a double diode assembly. Some, the fuse also controls the Fog lights and "automatic lights on" at dusk feature. Other cars the fuse will not deactivate the fogs and auto "ON". 1999 and 2000 more likely to have the "auto on" feature, related to the GM liability for no tail lights at night.
On some newer GM models it may be possible to press the "Dome Override" button 3 or 4 times within 6 seconds. This will disable the DRLs while the vehicle is running. When it is restarted, the DRL function will reset to "always on." We've heard that this works on full-size and S-series trucks.
I believe most recent GM models (99+), use a VCR tape sized DRL module that will be under the dash, behind radio, glovebox, over pedals, etc. There are two 8 pin connectors, the smaller blue connector C2; A is GND, B is NC, (jump A to B to disable) or pin C (pink) is ignition power, if fused separately, just remove fuse or disconnect power wire. Here's a site with excellent directions and pictures. Failing to find the module, there is a headlamp relay (5 pins) located in the engine compartment or near the steering column, and if you bend over one of the coil pins, #85 or #86, or the normally open contact #87, that will disable the DRL. (#30 and #87a are needed)
GM cars that I have seen, the DRL has a switch at the parking brake.
To defeat DRLs while driving, simply a jumper at switch.
(Note, this may illuminate the BRAKE light on your dashboard,
making brake system failures unreportable!).
GM Specific Models
2002 Cadillac STS I looked under the hood and popped the cover off the fuse box. Under the lid is a diagram of the fuses with labels. One of them (#24 on my model car) said "DRL" on it. I pulled that fuse and voila! Success and everything else is still working just fine.
1999-2000 Cadillac STS I'd like to add a simple method for disabling DRL's WITH NO KNOWN NEGATIVE SIDE EFFECTS. On my 1999 Cadillac STS, the high beam bulb is used for the DRL. I cut the negative (ground) wire feeding this bulb, and attached (grounded) it to another metal screw (any other grounding source) by another piece of wire under the hood. I was pleased to find out that (for some reason) the daytime running lights were no more. Also, the high beam headlight switch remained fully operational, activating the high beams at night when desired, and during the day as a "flash to pass feature."
1996-2002 Cadillac Eldorado
2005 GM full size vans
2000-2002 Buick Century
1999 Buick LeSabre
That's it. Holding the Park lite Green wire at 12Volts whenever the Ignition is on makes this system think that you always have the car in park and therefore, it will never engage the DRL function. Don't do this at the park switch, or you will screw up your automatic door locks!
Where is the LCM? on Le Sabre's, its mounted on the center of the firewall, low, just above the floor "hump". Push it towards the drivers side will disengage it from it's mounting clips. If your Buick does not have a rear seat heating duct connected to the heating ducts, then you will have to remove the plastic block off plate, which has a piece of plastic on it's left side blocking you from pushing the LCM towards the drivers side so that you can disengage it from it's mounting clips. Other Buick models seem to have the LCM mounted under the dash behind the glove box.
Want to have a switch to select "with or without" DRL? Get a 2 position, 3 terminal switch & about 6' of small wire. Cut 3, 2' pieces of wire and connect them to your switch. Cut the lite Green wire going to pin A8 a few inches from the connector on the LCM. Remove about 1/4" of insulation from the Pink A7 wire a few inches from same connector. Connect the wire from the center pin of your switch to the lite Green wire going to pin A8 of the LCM's connector. Using one of the other 2 wires from your switch, connect it to the other end of the lite Green wire. Using the last unused wire from your switch, connect it to bare place on the Pink wire. Tape up all of your connections. Find a handy place and mount your switch. Moving the switch from one position to the other will permit or defeat the DRL function in your Buick, without disturbing any other functions in your car.
1998 Buick LeSabre
Buick LeSabre (unknown year)
1997 Buick Park Avenue (confirmed for 2001 also)
Deactivating the DRL's. To deactivate the DRL's, remove the driver's side headlamp assembly; on my '97 Park Avenue, this was held in place using two thumbscrews atop the assembly, accessible from under the hood (do NOT mess with the aiming screws) and pull the assembly straight forward to pop the rear retaining pin out of its socket in the fender. After it is loose, unplug or twist and remove the turn illuminator lamp (rearmost bulb in the assembly) if necessary so you can pull the assembly out far enough to see what you're doing.
Locate the "ground" wire of the driver's side HIGH beam headlamp (the lamp closest to the car's centerline); on my '97 PA, this wire is black with a white stripe. You can verify that this is the wire you want by unplugging the headlamp connector and verifying that this wire is +12V when the DRL's would be on (DAYTIME, ignition ON, headlamp switch OFF, transmission in D) and that it becomes a chassis ground when the high-beam headlamps are ON (nighttime or headlamp switch ON, with the high beams activated). Cut this wire at a spot several inches from the headlamp connector.
Carefully endcap the end of the cut wire coming from the control module (the chassis wiring harness end, NOT the headlamp assembly end), to prevent shorts. Then splice the headlamp end of the cut ground wire into the ground wire of the low-beam headlamp (solid black on my car; use a multitester to verify that it's a ground). Solder the splice well to prevent loose connections, tape and insulate it, put everything back together, and you're done. The headlamp wiring now duplicates the factory RPO T62 wiring as described in the factory shop manual.
If you want to get fancy, you can ground the high-beam headlamp through a weatherproof 25A SPDT switch under the hood - one of the plastic air box struts is a good place to put it - with one side of the switch going to the lamp control module and the other side going to a chassis ground, and the wire from the headlamp going to the center contact. This allows you to switch the car between the regular and RPO T62 configuration if desired, but don't attempt it unless you know what you're doing. Suitable weatherproof switches are available from West Marine or other boat stores.
Why this works. When operating the regular high beam headlamps (not DRL's), the Lamp Control Module (LCM) feeds +12VDC to both headlamps separately; the passenger side headlamp grounds through a nearby chassis ground, and the left driver side headlamp grounds through the LCM itself since it has no local chassis ground. In this mode, the high beam headlamps are operating in parallel.
When the headlamps are off and the DRL's are triggered, the LCM feeds +12VDC to the "ground" wire of the driver's side high-beam headlamp, and the current flows in "reverse" through the driver's side headlamp and grounds through the passenger side headlamp. In this mode, the high beam headlamps are operating in series, decreasing the current (and light output) somewhat.
On cars equipped with the RPO T62 (no DRL) option, the driver's side headlamp is grounded to a local chassis ground instead of through the LCM, and the DRL wire from the LCM is either deleted or endcapped. The above procedure duplicates this configuration.
2001 Buick Park Avenue - disable auto headlights.
2005+ Chevy Corvette (C6)
2005 Chevy Astro and Safari
To disable Automatic Headlights (which also turn on the dash lights and all the other exterior lights), pull the center defroster grill out, unplug the sensor and insert a 2k ohm resistor into the plug (cover it with tape so the leads cannot short to anything metallic under the dash). This fools the computer into thinking that it is a bright sunny day outside. Leave the sensor where it is, replace the grill, and you're done.
2003 Chevy Astro and Safari
There are 2 relays in the block, the DRL and the RAP -which controls the items that are powered after the key is shut off. Radio and windows work until a door is opened or 20 minutes goes by.
The relay block is held onto a plastic bracket with 2 plastic rivets I guess they would be called. They are hollow with a plastic peg that when pushed in expands them.
I pried the relay block off the bracket as it is not possible to pull the relays when it is in situ as they are mounted from the top.
There is a cover over the relays for no apparent reason beyond making it more difficult to find them?
Anyway, after I got the relay block out, pulled the relay and bent over the 87 pin as mentioned in your info for various GM vehicles. Fixed, no more DRL and all lights working.
Pushed the centers out of the mounting rivets and replaced relay block in position, inserted expander pegs into rivets and done.
1999 Chevy Astro LS
1997+ Chevy Camaro and Pontiac Firebird. DRL control module, a cigarette pack sized black box behind the radio. Pop off front panel over radio and heater ducts, 4 clips. The DRL module is clipped to the HVAC duct. The connectors you'll be working with are not hot but some of those leads behind the dash ARE hot, its best to disconnect the battery negative terminal to be sure. The blue connector on the DRL module has eight cavities, but only seven of them are used. Cavity B is empty. I discovered that if that terminal is grounded, your DRLs are disabled. The black wire in cavity A is a ground, so I took the DRL module apart (easy to do, the cover just slips off) and solder-jumpered the A and B terminals on the PCB. This leaves you with no DRLs, your power hatch and handbrake light still works, and it all looks factory. Easy to undo if you want. A switch can be connected in this A to B lead for DRLs as an option. You are jumping a ground, not a hot wire.
1997+ Chevy Camaro and Pontiac Firebird. A few sites that give good instructions to disable the DRLs and Auto Headlights. www.f-body.org has a wealth of information for Camaro and Firebird owners. Disable information is available at leres' page, bpador's page, F-Body FAQ (about 3/4 down the page)
1990 Chevy Cavalier Disconnect DRL module behind battery. Website with photos
1995-1999 Chevy Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire
1999 Chevy Cavalier
2000 Chevy Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire
2005 Chevrolet Impala.
Simply pull the DRL relay out of the fuse block under the hood
and bend over pin 87. Why this works:
Pins 87 and 30 are the two pins that are connected together when the relay
is energized. Bending 87 over will still let the relay energize but since
the pin is bent over, the DRL's don't come on. As long as the computer
senses the resistance of the relay coil between the two trigger pins (85
and 86) it thinks all is OK and doesn't set any codes. If you bend over
either of the trigger pins like suggested for other vehicles, the computer
will display "Service Vehicle Soon" in the info center.
Chevrolet 2000-2005 Impala and Monte Carlo Product available here.
1998 Chevy Lumina
The DRL on this car runs power to the right highbeam light (blue wire), which then goes over and through the left highbeam to ground. So, DRL consists of the highbeam lights being in series so they run dimmer. The blue wire was cut near the right highbeam light socket. The blue wire closest to the light socket was splice to an existing ground wire. This action allows the DRL module to still think it is powering the highbeam lights, which it always does because the sensor how tells it its always daytime. But, the power is in a deadend wire (taped off). When the highbeams are turned out, power now goes through the right highbeam, then to ground, rather than being grounded through the DRL module.
2000 Chevy Malibu
Chevy S10 trucks
1999 Chevy Blazer (S10) ZR2
For auto headlights - The "push the dome over ride 4 times in 6 seconds " does not seem to work on this truck. Remove the passenger dash speaker grille, unplug the light sensor. I didn't have the recommended 1000 OHM resistor , so far 82 OHM is working.
1998 Chevy S10 pickup
1998 Chevy S-10 and Blazer. Underhood fuse
box, remove black DIODE, 99's may be same, 2000's are not.
Chevy S-10 trucks - ZR2. On the ZR2 models there is a relay under the carpet,taped to the wiring harness.You have to cut the CENTER YELLOW wire to kill them. The relay under the hood trick doesnt work. Alternative: pushd the DOME OVERRIDE button 4 times each time you start the vehicle.
1999 Chevy/GMC full size trucks. (Also verified on 2000 model). Here is another way to disable the automatic headlights on a 1999 Chevy Silverado. This is very simple. Remove the radio. Push and twist the photoresister (the black light sensor on top of the dash by the windshield) so it goes beneath the dash. Reach back and disconnect the photoresister from the wire (it should just pop off). Push the wire back up throught the hole (it will be easier to work with this way). For the lights on the '99 chevy to stay off there must be resistence running through the circuit. One way to accomplish this is to run an LED through the circuit. I went to Radio Shack (which I hate doing) and purchased a 12 volt red LED light. I placed the wires in the two holes left by the removing the photoresister connecter at the end of the wire (if your lights don't stay off, swith the wires around in the hole). This is all you need to do. In addition though, I soldered the wires in place and then taped them. I also disassembled the photoresister (use x-acto knives and be careful) and was able to glue it back around the LED light (this keeps there from being a hole in the top of my dash, and makes the light look factory installed). This whole procedure cost me a little over $3.00 for the LED and about 1/2 hour of time.
1999 Chevy/GMC full size trucks + Suburban/Tahoe By the right driver's knee under the dash is a fairly elaborate aluminum finned heat sink. It can be removed by bending the two bottom retaining clips, sliding it down, and unplugging the electrical connector. Presto, chango, no more DRL's! Plus it makes a nice paperweight.
1999+ Chevy/GMC full size trucks
Chevy/GMC 98 full size trucks
1996-1998 Chevy/GMC fullsize trucks
1999-2006 Chev/GM full size trucks with dedicated DRLs. Some people have put in amber bulbs, I suggest dead bulbs or remove them altogether. These DRLs burn out frequently. Also, if one amber bulb burns out, the remaining functioning bulb may be interpreted as a turn signal!
2000 Chevy Express and GMC Savana Passenger Van (possibly other years). Pull the fuse named "DRL" in the fuse panel (2nd last row, 3rd fuse from bottom).
2005 Chevy Trailblazer and GMC Envoy. Instructions at forums.trailvoy.com
2004 Chevy Trailblazer and GMC Envoy. The headlight switch is normally in the AUTO position and DRL is on every time you crank the car. To turn DRL off, you have to rotate the headlight switch CCW momentarily. For this vehicle, all the switches and inputs go to the computer (Body Control Module - BCM), which is located at the under-seat fuse box. Connector C1 is the bottom connector. Connector C2 is above C1. Connector C3 is the horizontal one that connects to the fuse box with a flat sheet. The BCM program figures out what outputs to turn on and off. There is no single fuse or relay you can remove to disable DRL. It seems like you should be able to ground BCM connector terminal C2-F8 (light green wire), but that does not work. When you get through, there are two anomalies: 1) You will be able to turn your high beams on when the engine is running without the headlight switch being on; (2) When your turn your high beams on with the headlight switch on, both low and high beams will be on.
This assumes you are familiar with basic troubleshooting and handyman skills and that you will properly insulate your splices, etc. Needless to say, this will void your warranty if it is still in effect.
1999 & 2003 Chevy Venture Van (perhaps others)
1998 GMC Jimmy. There is a sensor on the right speaker grill on top of the dash that turns the headlights on at night or any time it there is low light, you can't turn them off for any reason without turning the key off. Remove the two screw and unplug the senser, using a diode (any size) as a jumper to trick it to think it is always daylight. if it does not work turn the diode around, tape it in place.
1997 GMC Safari Van. Pull fuse #15.
1996 GMC Jimmy and a 1998 GMC Sierra CK
2001 Oldsmobile Alero Locate the DRL relay in the main fuse box under the hood, it is #22 corresponding to the diagram on the underside of the fuse box cover. Remove the relay, snip pin 87, and re-insert. Source
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora Detach pin 87 from the DRL relay.
2000-2005 Pontiac Bonneville Remove relay #30 in the fuse panel under the hood. For the high beams to work correctly a jumper wire should be ran from 87a to 30 where the relay would normally be. If this isn't done the driver's side high beam will not operate. See figure
1996-1999 Pontiac Bonneville You must pull the electrical connection from the DRL resistor. The resistor is found on the driver's front side of the engine bay. First, find the large black box which contains the computer. Next, pull the black box to the left so you can see the horn easier. Once you find the black horn, look to your right you will see a small white box thats bolted to the frame of the car. There will be a electrical connection on the back of the white box snap if off and your done. Once the connector is out of the white box you no longer have drls. The head lights will still turn on so there is no need to worry.
1997+ Pontiac Firebird
2003 Pontiac Grand Am Just go under the hood and remove relay #22 and that will kill the DRL's on a 2003 Grand AM GT. I have heard that this method only works on the 03's.
2000 Pontiac Grand Am I just disabled a 2000 Grand Am which I purchased for my son. Very similar to the instructions for 2000 Saturn. DTR Relay is Relay 22 in the fuse box under the hood. Relay is second in the first row ( upper left looking from driver side). You loose driver side head lamp until the jumper is added. The diagram below is looking from the passenger side of the vehicle.
86 87 87a --- -+- --- __/ / -+- --- 85 30
I found taking a 2 inch long piece 10 gage of ground wire from some house wiring and flattening the ends with a hammer works great to fit the into the relay socket.
1999-2000 Pontiac Grand Am This I know for sure works on 99-00 model GAs. This makes for an alternative for the DRL kits that are no longer in production. There is hint that a fully Plug and Play version is underway which I would recommend if you want to return to stock easily. If you are brave enough to mess with the BCM wiring there here you go.
First do not remove any relays or fuses; however, I highly recommend that you unplug your negative battery terminal.. Don't want to risk popping fuses or pooching the Body Control Module (BCM).
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash. There isn't much space to work with so to get the most space I would recommend that you remove your glovebox as well as the under dash panels. The BCM looks like a black box about the size of a CD jewel case. It will have 3 connectors.. 1 pink and two gray.
Now simply add on a piece of wire to the side that is still connected to the body control module. attach this wire to a good ground, like a screw in the metal part of the dash behind the glove box or I used the interior light mounting bracket screw right there next to the BCM.
The BCM now see's this to mean that the regular headlights are on, and so it energizes the relay that turns off the DRL's.
Cut these wires again leaving as much wire as possible attached to the BCM.. simply tie the two wires together and tape them up real good. (this is the same thing as removing ambient light sensor and adding a jumper wire)
The BCM will now think that it is daylight all the time and it will not energize the relay to turn on the headlights.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix.
What you have now is absolutly no DRLs during the day and still have "AUTO ON" at night. Everything else like the parking brake indicator works just as it should.
2004-2006 Pontiac GTO You can disable the GTO's by going into Relay box in hood on passenger side. Remove the relay for DRL. The DRL stop working, but everything else is ok. Please note that the dash indicator will still show, but other than that works great.
1997 Pontiac Sunfire
Behind the front bumper, in front of the radiator should be a relay. Remove plug from the relay. IMPORTANT: Jumper wires #80 and #87a (if uncertain which wire is which, stop now, plug relay back in and please do some research). Temporary method is to attatch a jumper wire to the plug and electrical tape it to prevent water leaking in. Permanent method, cut these two wires at the plug and splice them together. Don't forget heat-shrink. I end-spiced the rest seperately and removed the plug/relay all together. Failure to splice these 2 wires together will result in the passenger headlight not working properly.
Once completed, start car, release e-brake (if automatic tranny: and remove from park [reverse should work]) DRL indicator on dash should flash. If successful, move on to part 2.
1) Remove the dash and instument cluster. A shop manual may be needed for this task, if one is not readily available, instructions can be located here.
2) Once instrument cluster is removed, CAREFULLY remove the plastic housing on the rear of the panel. Take caution not to damage the circuit board or you are out to find another instrument panel ($80-175).
3) Once the gauges are free from the circuit board, look at the back of the gauges where the idiot light filters are. Cover the DRL light (the green one) with black electrical tape. If you were like me and found the shift light annoying, go ahead and cover that one too.
4) Reassemble instrument panel and reassemble dash.
If done correctly, you should not see a green blinking light while engine is running and e-brake released (if automatic tranny: and out of park).
2003 Pontiac Vibe (and Toyota Matrix), Toyota Corolla
2002,2003 Saturn SL2, possibly works on the entire S series:
At this point, your DRLs are disabled, but so is your right high beam. If you can live with this, close up. If you want it back, get a piece of wire, as large as you can get that will still fit in the hole, and jump position 87 with position 85. In graphical terms:
86 87 87a --- -+- --- __/ / -+- --- 85 30
2000 Saturn SL1 This is how I disabled the DRLs on my 2000 Saturn SL1. Under the hood go to the fuse and relay box. Where the Oil Reset Switch is located. Use the Diagram on the lid to find the DRL relay. Remove the relay. Using a small flat head screw driver remove the cover on the relay. Insert a piece of non-conductive material in to the gap between the normally open contacts. Put the cover back on the relay. reinsert the relay. put the relay box cover back on. And bingo no more DRL. The only side effect if the green DRL Light on the dash board flashes for a few seconds and then goes out when you first start the car.
Saturn 97 SC2 Check here. Remove center dash pad, 2 screws, look for circuit 592 from the black 18 pin connector on the instrument cluster, term "L", a thin light green/black wire (third connection from end), cut and tape.
2002 and 2003 Saturn Vue These are probably the easiest to disable with no adverse effect. Pull the relay in the engine compartment fuse box and you're done.
Saturn. I simply disconnected the lead going to the high beam DRL bulb of my SC2. I lost my high beams, but if you live in L.A., you rarely use them. (Too much use can get you shot anyway!)
BMW most models. DRL set by the dealer at owner's request.
2001 Chrysler Concorde (and Dodge Intrepid) Pull the 10 amp sue out of "Cavity" 15. Basically, remove fuse 15. It's in the fuse list in the instruction manual.
1994-2002 Dodge Ram I succesfully by-passed them by disconnecting the DRL moudule (drivers side fender well black box directly below the brake booster). I cut the red/orange stripe wire then cut the red/gray stripe wire connected them together and plugged the DRL module back in. I soldered/heat shrink the wires together and installed back in the factory split loom for a clean install. This should work on all 2nd generation Rams, 1994-2002.
1999 DODGE RAM
This is probably superceded by the procedure described above.
2006+ Dodge Caliber Uses high beam DRLs but can be reprogrammed by the dealer.
2012+ models. It appears that DRLs are a configurable option on the vehicle's computer. A Ford dealer should be able to connect to the OBD port on the vehicle and disable the DRLs. The aftermarket may also have tuners that can connect to the computer with the ability to disable DRLs.
2012 Fiesta. Remove Fuse F-23 from the ENGINE COMPARTMENT fuse box. Absolutely no side effects such as Chimes, lights, etc. DRLs are gone and lights function normally with the switch. This could possibly apply to previous years.
2011 Transit. Under the hood on the uppper left corner is the engine fuse box. Remove relay 31C and the DRLs are gone. Noe side effects. Lights can be manually turned on/off and no chimes, lights, or anything whatsoever in the instrument cluster. May apply to earlier models as well.
2001 Ford Taurus. Just rendered my DRL'S out of service. The DRL relay pack is located on the left front inner fender panel and is held in by two plastic clips that are bent back to allow easy removal of the holder. Remove the smaller of the two relays (white) in color and drive with out the lights. Everything else appears to function normally.
2004-2007 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable. The DRL's (if equipped) are softwared into the Smart Junction Box (SJB) which is located in the left side kick panel. The SJB does all vehicle lighting and electrical features and includes the fusebox and keyless entry. This SJB must be replaced to delete the DRL's. I got mine directly from Ford (Part # 5F1Z-15604-C) for about $199.20 and it literally can be replaced by a basic shadetree mechanic in 15 minutes. The new SJB can be ordered with or without keyless entry and comes with two new remotes and includes a new keypad code if yours features the option. There is NO WAY to program the lights off and applying the parking brake one click does turn them out but chimes incessantly when vehicular movement is detected.
FORD Taurus/Mecury Sable/others. DRL module located under LF fender, "DRL fuse" located in engine compartment fuse/relay panel. Operates by pulse modulation to reduce voltage to HI beams.
1999 Ford Taurus. Remove fuse #15 from the underhood fuse/relay panel located on the radiator support near the battery.
Ford Explorer 2002-2006. In the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side between the battery and firewall, remove the #14 10A fuse. This controls the DRL module only, no side effects, warning lamps on the dash or loss of any other light functions.
Ford Expedition 1997-1998. Under the hood open the fuse box (driver side) and simply pull out fuse 9. This will disable DRL and no side effects.
FORD F-150 Trucks Replace the DRL relay (located top of pass side dash) with a loop back plug (or modify it). But first try unplugging the dropping resistor (located at Left front of truck, underneath). Web site.
2004 Ford E-250 Van (also reported to work on 2006 E-250)
Pop the air inlet tube out of the shroud, rotate it up and out of the way.
Lift the shroud up. Behind it you will see the Daytime Running Light module. Unplug the gray connector.
Tape up the connectors to keep water out.
Put everything back together. This completely disables the Daytime Running Lights. The headlights still work manually and I have no other problems after doing this.
FORD E-Series - Method 1. On 2005 to Current E-Series vehicles, the DRL's can be disabled by placing a Normally Closed 12 Volt Isolation Relay in circuit 294 (White with Light Blue stripe) near the DRL module and triggering the relay open. The DRL module is located on the passenger side of the grill area in front of the radiator.
FORD E-Series (2005) - Method 2. Follow the 2004 directions to find the 2005 E Series Daytime Running Light Module. Simply cut the power wire (White with Light Blue Stripe) and cap the ends with electrical tape.
FORD F250-550 trucks. On 2005 to 2007 F250-550 trucks, the DRL's can be disabled by placing the common side of the switch of a 12 Volt Isolation Relay to circuit 162 (Light Green with Red stripe) at the Battery Junction Box (BJB) side of the circuit, connecting the Normally Closed Relay pin to circuit 162 away from the BJB and the Normally Open Relay pin to ground. By providing a ground signal on circuit 162, the DRL Relay #1 is opened and the DRL's will not be powered.
FORD F-250 and F-350. Fuse number 12 in the high-amperage fuse box under the hood on '99 and newer F-250/350 superduty. Unfortunately, this will also disable the horn and perhaps other accessories. We are told that for the 2005 models the DRLs are now run through fuse number 13.
2012 Civic. Remove fuse #21 (7.5A) under the dash. No more DRLs and no idiot lights. At least Honda made it simple.
2008 Acura TL. Remove fuse #3 (15A) in the interior fuse box. However, the DRL indicator light on the dashboard is tripped when you do this.
2006+ Honda Civic. Confirmed on 2009 Civic Si as well. Simply remove fuse #37 (7.5A) from the INTERIOR fuse box (under the far left side of the dash). Goodbye DRLs. Absolutely NO after-effects (i.e. - idiot lights, etc.). Clean and simple!
2006 Honda Accord. It's very easy to disable the DRL on the 2006 Accord Coupe. I can only guess that sedans are probably the same. I have done it w/no ill effects other than what I will note. Simply pull fuse #3 from the interior fuse box. It's a 10 amp fuse in the bottom row 3rd from the left. It's clearly shown in the owner's manual. The only downside is that it causes a DRL warning light in the instrument panel to light. It is supposed to tell you there is a problem w/the DRL circuit. It does turn off when you have the headlights on (but not the parking lights). I don't find that the warning light is overly annoying (though that is subjective), especially since it turns off when the headlights are on.
2007 Acura MDX.
In the auxillary underhood
fuse box, there are two 10amp fuses. #1 and #2 for the left and right
DRL respectively. Pull them out...no more DRL. The fuses will not affect
any other system.
2011+ Honda Odyssey If you pull the #27 fuse in the driverside fuse panel on the 2011-12 Honda Odyssey, it will eliminate the DRL's with no idiot lights resulting.
2009 Honda Pilot. I took out two 10 amp fuses in the #12 and #13 slots located under the driver side fuse box. The bright yellow DRL malfunction light will still show on the instrument cluster, so I went a step further and disassembled the dash panels to get the instrument cluster out.
To disassemble the upper dash panel to get to your instrument cluster ... You'll need to first pull off the side cover of the dash board. (To get to it, you'll need to keep the driver door open all the way). There is a screw that holds down the bottom half of the driver dash panel. You will then also need to pull out the left portion of the center console. Once you are able to remove this, you can pull the bottom half of the driver dash panel out. After this is pulled out, you can then pull the upper half of the driver dash panel out. This will give then give you access to take out the instrument cluster.
Turns out that the lights that power the cluster are led lights, not halogen bulbs like I had originally assumed. So I went ahead and cut out an old pice of bicycle innertube (can use anything to cover the led light) and filled it in the light chamber behind the DRL indicator. Each indicator on the instrument cluster has light chambers over the led/circuit board.) I also used black electric tape to cover any possible leaks of light going through that chamber just in case the inner tube wasn't successful in blocking out any of the light. I suppose two layers of black electrical tape will work as well. Then assemble the gauge cluster and dash panels back in reverse order.
Total process took me about 30 minutes. The first 15 was trying to figure out how to to disable everyting w/o breaking anything off.
1997 and later Honda/Acura. To disable the highbeam DRL for all Hondas/Acuras 1997 model year or later, just look for the DRL fuse in the fuse box under the dash. It should be a 7.5A fuse. There is another one that is 10A, but it doesn't need to be removed. This worked for both my 1997 Honda CRV Canadian version and 2004 Acura RSX
Santa Fe (2007). We have reports that the DRLs are disabled simply by removing a fuse from the fuse panel.
Jeep TJ (2003). Many people disable DRLs (daytime running lights) by unplugging the module itself. This works but will usually disable some other aspect such as your high beam indicator. The Jeep TJ (mine is a 2003 Sahara) uses a motion sensor to send a signal to the DRL module to tell it the Jeep is moving and to activate the daytime running lights. To defeat this, you need to open the cable assembly leading into the DRL and find the wire which is coded WHITE/ORANGE and cut this wire so that the motion signal never reaches the DRL and the lights stay off until YOU want them by YOUR choice. There are no adverse effects whatever; everything else continues to work properly. I went a step further since I do want them on if I am on the highway for a long trip. I cut the wire and connected the two ends of this wire to a switch which is fixed under the hood. One position is DRL ON, the other is DRL OFF. I don't know what years or models this will work for but I suspect it would work for many situations.
Jeep TJ (1997+). (Possibly superceded by above.) Manufactured in Canada come equipped with dim DRL's. To disable them, you need to unplug the control module that operates them. Its located on the firewall under the hood, drivers side; Its about the size of a beeper (pager) Unplug it and make sure it dosen't dangle down onto the engine. The only side effect I have noticed is, the high beam indicator that tells you that your bright lights are on, doesn't work. But who really needs that anyway!!!!
Jeep Grand Cherokee, Auto ON lights. Lift out the dash defroster grill and open up the 3/16" hole (left center) to 3/8" and your lights will come on just after sunset instead of the middle of the afternoon.
2010 Kia Forte (Canadian Version)
2006+ Lotus Elise and Exige
2003 Mazda Protege 5
NOTE: The wire colors are SOLID COLOR/STRIP; if there is one color then there is no stripe.
1. Find the Fog Light relay. Located in the drivers side foot well. Look up.
2006+ Galant and Eclipse. Pin 2 on front ECU module. Discussion and pics at mitsubishi-forums.com
2011 Versa. Under the hood, look for the fuse compartment, which is just in front of the battery. On the compartment cover, there will be a “DTRL”, which is a 10 amp fuse. Pull that fuse out and that is all. DRL’s are gone and no side effects. Possibly applicable to earlier years.
Saab 92-X Remove the glovebox. If you can't figure out how to do it you probably don't have the skill required to complete this installation. It's just a bunch of phillips head screws.
Looking at the gaping hole your glovebox used to occupy, you want to focus on the far-right. There is a small, vertically oriented black box with a white and yellow connector plugged into the bottom of it. Unplug it and screw your glovebox back in. Done.
Saab 900. Remove "DRL fuse" 9-3 is #15, dash side.
2013 Subaru Crosstrek XV, 2012 Subaru Forester There is a DRL resister that is only employed during DRL on time so when this resister is disconnected it defeats the DRLs and only the DRLs, all other light functions bypass this resister and are not affected by the removal of this resister being out of circuit. This makes it easy to defeat, but it takes a little effort to get to the resister/connector that is located in front and down of the engine intake air filter housing, mounted to the front of a sheet metal fender cross support. I removed the air filter housing to gain access to the resister connector that has 2 wires green and white going to the resister that is approximately 3 inches long 2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick, you can also access from the bottom by removing the plastic splash guard. I simply disconnected the resister connector folding back the wire and tying it to itself and making sure the connector points down so as not to collect water.
2007 Subaru Tribeca. Like some of the other Subaru's the drl module is black approximately 3x4x1.5 inches, has a label that reads SUBARU 84067XA02A UNIT DRL ASSY AISIN made in usa, has a white connector with 10 pins 4 large ones and 6 small ones and 6 wires, a black connector with 8 pins 4 large ones and 4 small ones and 5 wires. The module is located up behind the dashboard left drivers side between the left kick panel and the parking brake up high so it is difficult to see and reach from under the dash looking up, remove the lower panel for access. The black connector has a gray wire going to pin 4 that needs to be disconnected, this wire is the signal coming from the alternator that the engine is running, so that when the engine is running the drl's will turn on. But with this wire disconnected the drl's will always stay on because who ever designed the circuit did not put a voltage drop down resistor in the circuit inside the module, so you need to solder a resistor between 3k ohm and 4 k ohm from pin 4 to ground, a resistor grater than 4.2k ohm will have no effect. I opened up the module's case and soldered a 3.3k ohm 1/4 watt resistor to the back side of the circuit board, doing it this way will retain function if the gray wire is reconnected with the 3.3k ohm resistor in place and will not harm the circuit.
SUBARU LEGACY (unspecified year)
2000 SUBARU LEGACY GT. Look underneath the dashboard (driver side) and you will see 2 plastic modules bolted to the steering column. One is usually mounted in Horizontal (Seat Belts Module), the other in vertical (DRL Module). One will have only 1 white connector(horizontal-seat belts), the other (vertical-drl module) will have 2, one black and white. We are concerned about the one with 2 connectors mounted vertical. When you look more closely it will probably have blue label with white letters on it. Here is what my said "UNT DRL ASSY AISIN 84067AE00A," also that module has 2 aluminum plates attached on both sides of the plastic box. Don't unplug the black connector because you will loose most of the functionality of your headlights, just remove the white one. Everything else will work fine, except no more DRL's.
2000-2004 SUBARU LEGACY L and L/SE.
The info on your website for the Subaru Legacy (including 2002 wagon) is not quite correct [ed. note, added "GT" specification above]. It works for Legacy GT headlights, but not for Legacy L/SE lamps. I got the following quote from the post at this forum and have verified that it works (on my own car):
For a non-GT 2000-2004 Legacy (single element headlamp), unplug the same white wire harness as the instruction for the GT model (dual element headlamp). Now as it says on the GT you can leave it unplugged, sadly this doesn't work on the single element headlamps (L & L SE), where this leaves you without any working headlights at all!
What you need to do is with the white harness unhooked, clip the blue/black wire & tape off the cut ends. Then plug the white wire harness back in. Doing this retains all current light function but does disable the DRL.
2003 SUBARU BAJA Same as 2000 LEGACY (above).
2005-2006 SUBARU BAJA SPORT
The connectors are released by pressing a small tab toward the top, center of the connector, on the long flat side of the connector, also facing the driver's door. Press the tab and pull on the end of the plastic connector, near the wires to free it from the module. Buy unplugging both the black and white connectors you will gain enough play in the harness to pull it just out from under the dash so you can work upright (instead of lying on your back).
Locate the blue/black wire toward the center of the white connector. That is the wire for the signal circuit that you need to leave open to disable the DRLs. YES, you CAN just cut the wire and tape the ends, but IF you wish to leave functionality for future owners or in case regulations change for the worse, you can either cut it and insert a toggle switch OR just remove the pin from the connector.
To remove the pin from the connector take a long, THIN pick (like an O-ring pick or terminal tool) and insert it into the back end (wire end) of the connector for the blue/black terminal. You must insert it on the underside of the pin (on the side with the small plastic tang, basically closer to the center of the connector, but if you are unsure look at the open terminals on the connector to see where the small locktab is). With the pin pressing the locktab down use a small tool (such as the small jaw of a pair of needle-nose pliers) to push on the terminal from the module side of the connector, this should push the terminal and wire completely free of the connector. It takes a little bit of force, but if it takes too much, then you don't have the locktab depressed. Once the terminal is free, simply tape up the ends securely, and tape or wire-tie it back to the harness out of the way. Plug the 2 connectors back in and you're good to go.
(NOTE, for some BAJA Turbo models it is possible that simply unplugging the white connector will do the trick, so try this first to determine whether or not you need to cut/remove the blue/black wire. To test, simple unplug the connector, turn the key to run, and check the headlights. If all lights work, you're good to go. If the headlights don't work with the white connector unplugged, you need to remove the blue/black wire and reconnect the white DRL connector.)
2004 Subaru Forester Disconnect resistor module on passenger side shock tower under the hood, or disconnect the DRL module between the glovebox and the passenger side kick panel inside the car. This may apply to multiple model years. Source: scoobymods forums
2002 SUBARU. Disconnect the ballast resistor (narrow silver box) behind the RF strut tower on the RS2.5 and near the cruise control on the 2002 WRX. Do it when the turbo is cool.
2002 Subaru Outback Limited. When the parking brake is on, it just opens a path to ground through the switch. This ground is transmitted back to the DRL module on pin #4 of the black 8 pin plug through a pink wire. I didn't want the parking brake dash light to stay on so I came up with another solution. I simply snipped the pink wire about 2 inches from the plug and connected a wire from the pink stub coming out of the DRL plug and ran it to ground and just taped off the other snipped pink wire coming from the parking brake switch and let it alone. Voila!!! No DRL and no parking brake dash light! [ed. not sure if this completely disables the BRAKE warning light for other braking system problems]
General (also applies to Saab 92-X). Remove the glovebox. If you can't figure out how to do it you probably don't have the skill required to complete this installation. It's just a bunch of phillips head screws.
Looking at the gaping hole your glovebox used to occupy, you want to focus on the far-right. There is a small, vertically oriented black box with a white and yellow connector plugged into the bottom of it. Unplug it and screw your glovebox back in. Done.
1996 Sidekick Sport
In the connector of the Daytime Running Light Unit (Is the black
Module behind the ODBII Connector) Cut the next:
CAUTION: Check the others cables before cutting it, they may have also silver or grey dots, just to know that is the right module.
You can est it by removing the connector, have wheels chocked, gear in neutral and brake lever released, engine on at idle. If the headlights are off, that is the Module!
If you wish, a Double Pole Single Throw switch can be wired for enabling or disabling the DRL, just wire the Pin 3 in one side of the switch and the Pin 9 in the other side. A switch that looks the same as others installed in the Sidekick (The switch for disabling or place in "valet" mode the Suzuki security system for example) is NKK Switch DPST type:CWSB21AA3F, in www.alliedelec.com is Stock #: 870-0186 for about USD $2.50.
Toyota Prius. Description and low-cost parts to put the DRL function on a switch, where it should be. Visit this site.
2009 Toyota Corolla
It is worth noting that this procedure will also disable the automatic headlights that come on when the sensor detects it is dark. If Toyota uses the same standards in other models such as the 2009 Camry or Avalon as they have for the Corolla, then this procedure should work for those models as well.
2006 Toyota Corolla
Lexus RX300 and RX350 (recent, but unspecified years). Info at clublexus forums.
2001-2005 Lexus IS300. On the passenger side of the engine compartment near the strut tower there is a vented black box labeled "Hot." Unplugging this box disables the DRLs with no other effects.
1999 LEXUS. I did reliably disable the DRL, by uncovering the DRL relay box, under left front kick panel/glove box. Using the wiring manual, identifying the pin/lead to the parking brake switch, cutting the wire and then grounding that pin.
Simply clicking the parking brake 1 notch, will also work, but activates the dash warning light for the brake.
1999 LEXUS. 30A fuses under hood right rear. Unfortunately this disables the high beams altogether.
TOYOTA. From the Toyota technical service bulletin EL011-00 Web site for specific models determine where the module is; either the DRL relay or the body ECU, connector number, pin #. Oct 6,2000.
Avalon 1999 DRL relay D4 pin 1 Avalon 2000 body ECU B5 pin 6 Camry S/D 99* DRL relay D6 pin 23 Camry S/D 00* DRL relay D6 pin 10 *twilight sentinel Camry Solara99/00* DRL relay D6 pin 23 Celica 2000* body ECU B6 pin 17 Corolla 99/00* DRL relay D3 pin 23 ECHO 2000 DRL relay D2 pin 12 4Runner 2000 DRL relay D8 pin 2 Land Cruiser 99/00 DRL relay D8 pin 2 MR2 Spyder 2000 DRL relay D2 pin 12 RAV4 99/00 DRL relay D17 pin 2 Sierra 99/00 DRL relay D4 pin 2 Tacoma 2000 DRL relay D8 pin 2 Tundra 2000 DRL relay D7 pin 2
-disconnect battery- Then remove the wire with pin attached and tape to the harness. (consider just cut and tape the wire) -check operation- [except the 2000 MY-Avalon, additionally you need to ground the wire at the module end of the cut wire] does anyone know if there is a DRL relay that can be "fixed" ?
TOYOTA TUNDRA Tundras with DRL's have two gray electrical connectors located between the battery and the inner fender liner. One of these connectors is fastened to the fender liner and has two black wires leading to another component also fastened to the fender. Disconnect this one and your daylight running lights are inoperative. If you change your mind (please don't) simply reconnect and you are back to stock. www.tundrasolutions.com.
2000-2006 Toyota Tundra and Sequoia A commercial solution that provides a DRL switch. It should have been that way from factory!
2003 Toyota Matrix (and Pontiac Vibe), Toyota Corolla
VW Gen6 Golf/Jetta (possibly other models). You don't need VAGCOM reprogramming unless you have HID Xenon headlights. This worked perfectly in my '10 Jetta wagon. With car off, you turn turnsignal stalk as if making left turn. Then you pull the switch forward towards yourself as if flashing high beams. Hold in that position and turn on ignition... no need to start. After 10-15 seconds, it will ding and the DRL lights won't come on after that.
VW Mark IV Golf, GTI, and Jetta models
Push in on the headlight switch and turn clockise.
Carefully pull out the switch and disconnect the wiring harness.
Cut a small piece of electrical tape and place it over the pin
with the TFL marking just below it.
Reattach the switch to the wiring harness and reinstall the switch
in the dash.
VW Jetta (2005+) and Golf/GTI (2006+). The DRLs can be disabled by the dealer via the CAN BUS (diagnostic port). If you're the programming type, see openobd (German).
VW Passat (2005.5+) and Golf/GTI (2006+). You can use VAG-COM, a third-party diagnostic tool for VW and Audi. Ross-Tech, makers of VAG-COM, provide instructions to disable DRLS. This applies to all cars based on the Mk 5 Golf electronics--Audi A3, 2005.5+ Passats, 2005+ Golfs and GTIs and new Jettas. The program is expensive ($299+), but a lot of people around the country who own VAG-COM will help you. You can find such people using the VAG-COM locator.
VW. Change $50 headlight switch, does not sound good to me.
2000 VW Jetta, but I believe it applies to all VW models of recent vintage. Pulling the 173 relay (behind the fuse panel, remove the bottom footwell molding with two screws and pop off the driver's side fuse molding, the relay is visible from underneath) works for disabling DRL but may have the unfortunate consequence of disabling the emergency brake warning light. A solution is (1) to remove the relay, noting its orientation to assist in putting it back; (2) remove the cover of the relay by inserting a small screwdriver into the two tabs on the underside of the relay; (3) placing a 1/4 inch square of electrical tape under the normally-closed relay point, which is on the top of the relay; (4) putting the cover back on the relay--it only goes on one way, there being small slots in the cover to accept the circuit board of the relay; (5) replacing the relay. The relay stays in the normally-closed position, which turns on the headlights. It opens when the emergency brake is pulled. So the tape separating the normally-closed points defeats the DRL. The headlight switch operates normally.
VW Passat (Newest info). On 2001.5 and newer Passats, some people report that pulling Relay 173 as suggested also darkens the parking brake indicator light on the instrument panel. While this may or may not be true, there is an easier method to disable DRLs.
Remove the light switch by turning it off, pressing it in, then turning clockwise and pulling out. Take the switch off the wiring connector to reveal a set of metal tabs.
On 1998-2001 Passats (B5), place a narrow strip of electrical tape over pin TFL to disable the DRL when the light switch is in the OFF position.
On 2001.5-2003 Passats (B5.5) tape over pin B to disable the DRL when the light switch is in the OFF position.
If you have installed the Euroswitch, you need to also tape over pin 56D to disable the DRL when the switch is in the PARKING LIGHTS position.
VW Passat (older info). Tilt the steering wheel down to facilitate access to the assembly incorporating the headlights switch and instruments illumination level adjuster. Insert a .9 mm (.035 inch) maximum thickness feeler gauge into the gap above the assembly and just to the left of the illumination adjustment wheel. Slide the blade to the right to push over a tab, thereby disengaging the spring loaded locking mechanism, grasp the headlights switch, and pull out the assembly. Pull out the wiring connector. Disable the wide upper outboard pin (labeled "TFL") with a small rectangle of electrical tape. License plate and running lights remain in DRL mode but may be disabled by pulling (10 amp) fuses 3, 7, and 8.
VW Passat UPDATE
Currently the easiest way to disable the DRLs on the Passat B5.5 is to
remove relay 173 which is on a panel buried up behind the dash.
The light switch can be removed by turning it to the off position,
pressing it in then rotating it to the right to disable the locks,
it can now be pulled out. There is still a TFL tab but I don't know
what it does, if it activates the DRLs then maybe the rest of the
instructions will work.
VW New Beetle. I also participate on a digest where New Beetle owners share information and experiences. Many of the people posting on this have been asking why their low beam headlights burn out so quickly (most have had at least one bulb burn out within the first year of ownership). This is not specific to the New Beetle. Take a look around and note how many cars you see driving around in the daylight with a headlight burned out. Could it be (gasp!) that DRLs are responsible for this? What about the safety aspects of this? Drivers of vehicles with only one light operable can be and are ticketed by the police for good reason -- it's dangerous to drive around with only one headlight. No only is light output reduced, but you stand a chance of losing your remaining light and being in total darkness. DRLs increase this chance by a factor of five when compared to non-DRL equipped vehicles. Rather than a safety feature, they are a safety exposure.
VW New Bug. In L.A. Web site. Relay located just below the headlight switch, remove dash panel, torx20. 98 Bug, relay #8 (second position, second row) unplug it (may be #173) the park brake lite will not function, therefore open the relay and insulate the "normally open" contacts. Replace relay.
VW golf (possibly the A# Jetta as well) Web site. An alternative to the expensive Euro switch thanks to Mike Potter of www.parts4vws.com Remove fuse box cover, bottom of dashboard. Unclip and swing the board out of the way and push the block up. Locate and remove relay #94 or #173 in location #15. Reassemble.
VW-GTI Web site. push light switch in, turn CW, pull out. Remove and tape wire #3.
2002 VW Golf, Jetta IV, Passat B5, and New Beetle Remove relay #173 from under the dash. Cut off #5 spade on relay and re-install. No need to remove it permanently or to pull it apart and tape anything up.
96-99 VW Jetta Lower the fuse panel under the dash. You will see a relay marked with the number 173. Coming out of the back of this relay is a plain yellow wire. Trace this wire and you will find a small connector. Unplug the connector and your DRLs are disabled.
94-95 VW Jetta
The above method only works some of the time (due to wiring changes)
You may attempt this method, however, the the number on the relay would be
94 instead of 173. The other method is to pull the headlight switch from the
dash. You will see a pin on the back of the switch marked "TFL" (German
abbreviation for DRL) Put a piece of electrical tape over the TFL pin and
reinstall connector. You may also cut the wire that leads to the TFL pin.
You may want to crimp on a set of connectors so that the DRLs can be
re-activated if you ever want to sell the car.
2000-2002 VW Eurovan. Remove 4 screws holding panel in place just above cup holder console on dash. Behind that you will find several relays. Yank the one labeled with the big 94. This will essentially make your headlight switch an on/off switch only. Contact parts4vws for a euroswitch which will allow you to use parking lights alone, or headlights...hey, it works just like they did in the good old days!
1994 Volvo 850
2000 Volvo V40 Turn the ignition on. Turn the headlight switch to sidelights, pull and hold the Main Beam stalk. Turn the headlight switch to 0, release the Main Beam. If you do want to leave your car parked with the sidelights/parking lights on, and doors locked, reverse the process
Other Volvo This works on some models. Screwdriver hole adjacent to headlight switch. SAAB and Volvo are only ones that put info in owners manual.
If a vehicle is not listed, first consult the owner's manual and search for a DRL fuse or relay. Next try a shop manual. Again, we repeat our disclaimer:
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